Finally boarding is announced, we stagger forward to the gate to a throng of pushy Chinese, burly businessman in swishy silk suits, old women with tied bales over their shoulders, all are pushing, ready to storm the plane to claim the overhead, fill it with their assorted goods. Julia does a good job of staggering, looking overwhelmed by her sleeping infant while I carry all the bags and hold Wayan’s hand. Wayan is wide awake and very well behaved.

Again an Eva rep waves us through, “boarding for first class and families with children”, sweet, again we skip the line. On the plane we take a few steps and find our seat. Yes… El-Dorado! The treasured bulkhead is ours! No wonder the rep had to double-check our tickets.

Kids situate and are buckled, promptly fall asleep.