Turns out the scenery changes near tulamben. Dramatic erosion, large bounders and torn foundations litter the road. Lots of signs of flash floods, very dry so no rice. The “rivers” we passed were all dry, but were places where the water flow had worn through the meter thick layer of volcanic accumulation (cemented ash, I think), and then formed a deep sharp channel underneath. Lots of places where it overran its banks though, and lots of big round boulders choking the riverbottoms. Entire place is one big, steep floodplane coming down from volcanos. The worst terrain is where two floodplains meet.

Anyway, not a place for sissys. Tough farming, hot, and lots of natural disasters. And roughly one large boulder every square meter. The walls of stones next to the cleared fields are awesome. Hope the snorkeling is good.